Levi’s Made and Crafted are a great jean for those looking to get into raw denim as a hobby. Levi's is a household name and you kind of know what to expect with their sizing, etc. But what about their other lines? Check out some thoughts on LM&C.
Levi’s Made and Crafted, an off-shoot of the Levi’s, offers higher-end products. From outerwear to shirts and jeans, die-hards can usually expect a pretty solid new line each season from Levi’s Made and Crafted.
The selvedge denim used for the Tack jeans model comes from the vintage looms used by Levi’s in Japan. Though described as as “rigid”, they couldn't be more not rigid. The denim used is soft and light, weighing in at 12 oz. Along with the weight, the color - a dark indigo - is consistent throughout.
As for the actual selvedge, the denim’s finishing is a bit different than other Levi's denim I've worn in the past. When I think selvedge, I think raw almost coarse denim. Me still being a "n00b" when it comes to denim, I think I'm wrong. Selvedge, from my understanding, can come in all sorts of feels, with most differences depending solely on the weight of the pant.
When it comes to weight, Levi’s Made and Crafted made these jeans are perfect for winter and summer months alike. Weighing it at around 12 oz, their weight doesn't feel like a burden and when you get the, "How can you be wearing jeans when it's 90 degrees out?" question, kindly direct the inquisitor to how thin your denim feels.
The fit of the Tack is a bit different than the standard Levi’s 514 slim fit. I wasn't too crazy about the fit, honestly. When I tried them on, they were a little snug but not too snug. As I continued to wear them, they stretched and stretched and eventually became too baggy for my liking. This isn't to say the fit is bad, by any means. I maybe just bought the wrong size and didn't expect that much stretching.
As the name Made and Crafted implies, immense attention was given to the denim’s construction department. All the stitching was done in two tone gold and yellow thread; sewn just thick enough to be noticed, but not too thick that it becomes obnoxious. Stress points are reinforced with a combination of rivets and bar tack stitching.
The leather backpatch comes in an unstained tan leather color with Levi’s Made and Crafted branding embossed on it. However, one aspect that really stood out to me was the back pocket’s interesting take on the classic Levi’s arc. Rather than being sewn on the outside, the back pocket arches are sewn into the inside seat of the pants themselves. Thus as you wear the pants the pattern wears into the pockets. Of course no Levi’s denim would be complete without the tag, which is included on the back pocket and instead comes in a wonderful blue color.
As we make our way around to the front of the pants we encounter traditionally styled rivets on the front pockets. There’s also find a nifty little hidden selvedge detail on the inside of the coin pocket. The jeans come with a zipper fly, Made & Crafted branded waist button, and the chain stitched hems keep everything together with a tight finish at the bottom of the legs.
Taking a look at the interior of the jeans, there’s another hidden selvedge detail along the left side of the waist opening. Continuing to the left is a waist size tag and Made and Crafted branded pocket bag which also allows you to claim official ownership over your new jeans. The coolest feature of these pocket bags is that Levi’s paid extra attention to detail and sewed one side into the leg stitching so that they do not shift around during wear. The back of the waist features a Levi’s Made and Crafted tag which bears the model name and lot number.
Levi’s has always been known for it’s sturdy construction as well as their meticulous attention to detail while putting their garments together. From when I opened the package I was excited with what lay in store for me and impressed to see that the pants fit well and felt great. However by the end of the first day of wear, the stitching on the crotch of my jeans had started to come loose.
I let it sit for a couple of days hoping that it wouldn’t spread, but when it did I eventually gave the jeans a quick little rescue sew job and they’ve held up nicely since. All the major seams and stress points seem to have been reinforced with chain stitching and while I’m no garment construction or sewing expert, you’ll have to take a good look through the pictures to gain a full understanding.